Bacalar is a small town on the shore of the Laguna de Bacalar, the “lagoon of seven colours”, in the far south of Quintana Roo, about 40 km from Chetumal and the border with Belize. The freshwater lagoon is more than 40 km long, with clear blue water, cenotes and stromatolites, and the town has a colonial fort, lagoon-front hotels and a relaxed pace. It is about 335 km south of Cancun Airport.
At a glance
- From Cancun Airport: about 335 km, around 4.5 hours on Highway 307 (no tolls); private transfer from 622 USD per vehicle.
- Tren Maya: about 4.5 hours from the Cancun Airport station, around two trains a day.
- Chetumal Airport (CTM): 40 km away, domestic flights from Mexico City only.
- Lagoon rules: no sunscreen or repellent in the water, and never stand on the stromatolites.
How to get to Bacalar from Cancun Airport
Bacalar is about 335 km south of Cancun Airport on Highway 307, through Playa del Carmen, Tulum and Felipe Carrillo Puerto – around 4.5 hours, with no tolls but speed bumps in the towns. A private transfer takes you door to door: from 622 USD one way or 1120 USD round trip per vehicle for up to 8 people. ADO buses and the Tren Maya are cheaper but slower door to door. Details: Cancun Airport to Bacalar.
Areas of Bacalar
- Town center: the grid of streets around the main square and Fuerte de San Felipe, a block or two from the lagoon, with small hotels, hostels and restaurants.
- North shore: lagoon-front hotels along Highway 307 and the road to Xtomoc, quieter and more spread out.
- South Costera: the lakeside road south of town, lined with hotels with their own docks, towards Cenote Azul.
- Xul-Ha and Los Rápidos: the southern end of the lagoon, with eco-retreats in the jungle.
When to visit
November to April is dry and sunny, the best time for the lagoon’s colours. May is the hottest month; the rainy season runs from June to October, with afternoon storms that can cloud the water. Hurricane season runs from June to November.
Things to do in Bacalar
- Boat or sailing tour: the classic trip visits Cenote Esmeralda, Isla de los Pájaros, the Canal de los Piratas and the white-mud Estromatolitos area.
- Kayak or paddleboard: best at sunrise, when the lagoon is calm.
- Fuerte de San Felipe: an early-18th-century Spanish fort built against pirates, now a museum (closed Mondays).
- Cenote Azul: a 90-metre-deep cenote next to the lagoon, about 4 km south of town.
- Los Rápidos: a channel with a gentle current at the south end of the lagoon, about 20 minutes away; floating, kayaks and stromatolites (entrance fee).
- Chetumal and the Maya sites: the Museum of Maya Culture in Chetumal, and the ruins of Kohunlich and Dzibanché further west.
Where to stay
Stay in town for restaurants and walks to the fort, on the south Costera or the north shore for a hotel with its own dock, or at Xul-Ha for a jungle retreat near Los Rápidos. See all Bacalar hotels – each page shows the transfer price from Cancun Airport.
Protecting the lagoon
- Do not use sunscreen or insect repellent before swimming – wear a rash guard or hat.
- Never step on or touch the stromatolites, the living rock-like formations along the shore.
- Motorboats are restricted: they are banned at Los Rápidos and need permission for the Canal de los Piratas.
- Some operators rest the lagoon on Wednesdays, with fewer boat tours that day.
Getting around
- On foot: the center and the nearest lagoon-front hotels are walkable.
- Taxis: cheap in town and to Cenote Azul; agree the fare for longer trips.
- Bicycle: many hotels lend or rent bikes.
- Rental car: useful for Los Rápidos, Chetumal and the Maya sites.